Wine talk: New in from Geographic Wines

Lento, meaning ‘slow’ in Portuguese, is the latest offering from Geographic Wines, a recent arrival on the Portuguese winemaking scene, producing in the Bairrada, Vinho Verde and Douro regions, with a focus on minimal intervention winemaking and expression of their terroirs.

The wines all have great label designs and readers may already be familiar with the puffer fish illustration adorning their “Landcraft” bottle, such as their excellent Loureiro varietal made in the Vinho Verde region.

Another unusual image adorns this offering from the Douro with a hare racing slowly on the back of a snail.

Apolónia has both the white and the red, both from old vines, at €15.95 each.

The red is made from a field blend of over 100-year-old vines, un-oaked and very easy drinking with loads of jammy up-front dark fruit on the nose and a nice dry finish.

The white, also made from a field blend of Douro varieties (in this case around 90 years old), at over 500 metres altitude, is also un-oaked. This is perhaps the most interesting of the two. Aged on the lees, the wine has notes of lemon and some tropical fruit on the nose, well-balanced in the mouth with a mildly creamy texture and good acidity.

By Patrick Stuart
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