Patrick claims he deserves a holiday. Well, who am I to disagree? So here I am, standing in again for a couple of weeks or so.
White wines in Portugal have improved beyond measure over the last decade or so and this is a fine example at a sensible price.
CARM belongs to the Roboredo Madeira family, who for some generations have owned properties in the Douro valley, and their experience and local knowledge are well demonstrated in their range of wines.
This one hails from high vineyards in the upper Douro valley towards the Spanish frontier and is made from local grape varieties without help from any international varieties; Códega de Larinho, Rabigato and Viosinho. These give the wine a full, fresh and slightly aromatic flavour with well balanced acidity and minerality in the rich fruit flavours which seem to leave a touch of residual sweetness.
A splendid wine which I think you will find very pleasing on its own but it will go very well with richer fish or chicken dishes. Serve it fresh but be sure to avoid spoiling the flavours by over chilling. You can probably find it in Continente at well under €10.
By James Johnson
