Some serious Portuguese cheese

By PATRICK STUART [email protected]

After picking my wine for this week’s column at Apolónia this weekend, I headed straight for the cheese counter. For me, great quality complex whites such as this Redoma Douro are the perfect accompaniment to cheese and these rather ugly-looking aged “chevre”-style cheeses from Granja dos Moinhos near Santarém caught my eye.

The quality of Portuguese cheese never ceases to impress and it was refreshing to see something so different at the counter, even if it is a Portuguese imitation of the classic style of French “chevre” (goat’s cheese) – in this case very well matured.

This really is a cheese lover’s cheese but its appearance and very ripe smell conceal what is actually a fairly mildly flavoured curd (by stinky cheese standards).

The texture is at once slightly creamy and slightly crumbly and priced at €6.95 for a whole 250 gramme cheese, it is, unlike the wine in that it accompanied, an affordable treat.