Gliding like a shimmering sea monster, a glistening shoal of sardines is one of nature’s wonders. Inspiring Portuguese artist Roma Markov, his painting displayed at Galeria Côrte-Real in Paderne accurately portrays the sardine’s silvery appearance, its sleek form and agile beauty.
Roma Markov’s sardines are synonymous with Portuguese cuisine. Although a relatively small and humble fish, the sardine is classed as one of the world’s healthiest foods.
Taking into account the sustainability of sea resources, sardines are fished off the Portuguese coast in approved numbers. The industry has received the recognition of the Marine Stewardship Council and their coveted ‘Blue Award’. In all respects, therefore, the consumption of Portuguese sardines is to be encouraged. A traditional poem on the subject makes it clear there are additional spiritual benefits:
The Pope tells. His vassals from Rome to the Poles
There’s nothing like sardines for saving their souls
Almost certainly the sardine takes its name from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia where the fish used to populate the waters in very large numbers. Not surprising then that Napoleon Bonaparte – who was born in Ajaccio on the neighbouring island of Corsica – saw their potential for feeding his Empire. A highly perishable foodstuff, Napoleon was the first person to order the canning of sardines, one of his more peaceful dictates!
Wherever sardines were plentiful canning factories prospered. In Cornwall, the industry was lucrative, exporting its tins to Catholic Europe. Immersed in brine or oil, the neatly-packed rows of fish gave rise to a new game – “Let’s All Play Sardines”. In 1880, stocks off the Cornish coast began to dwindle, factories closed and the fishing industry went into decline.
Along the Algarve shore, shoals of sardines continued to thrive and factories in Olhão and Portimão became increasingly innovative. Creating sardine paste and accompaniments such as tomato sauces and oils flavoured with chillies, sardines took on a new and delicious perspective.
Today sardines are only seen in vast shoals – sometimes miles in length – as they take their annual route up South Africa’s east coast. Followed by predatory sharks, dolphins and sea birds, their journey has been compared to the wildebeest migration across the Serengeti.
As sardines are fewer in the Algarve only one canning factory remains. Fortunately supplies are enough so that ‘sardinhas assadas’ – grilled sardines – are available in many beachside restaurants. As we reach the end of this year’s sardine season, the advice is to eat them now or wait until April 2015.
Galeria Côrte-Real’s new pop up gallery is located close to the beach, above the estate agent ‘Fine & Country’ in Rua Barranco, Carvoeiro.
The main gallery is signposted from Boliqueime, Ferreiras and Paderne. Specialists in Portuguese art, the gallery includes landscape paintings, architectural studies, decorative handmade ceramics, as well as sculpted and carved birds of the Algarve region. It is open Thursday to Sunday from 11am to 5pm.
912 737 762
Photo: Painting by Roma Markov at Galeria Côrte-Real
By Carolyn Kain
