“So close and yet so far”. Or should it be “familiarity breeds contempt”? Whatever. We live within 300km of one of Europe’s most beautiful, most historic and, for us, most accessible cities. I know that some of you hardly ever go north of the 125 – how often do you hop up to Lisbon to enjoy its unique blend of history, culture and great food?
Helga and I recently took a two-day jaunt to Portugal’s capital city. We were going to take the train – comfortable, fast and very inexpensive (especially if you are over 60). However, there was a train strike, so we took one of the many busses direct from Loulé to Lisboa Sete Rios. A little slower than the train (three-and-a-half hours) but still very comfortable and even less expensive.
Our hotel was the Borges, a recently renovated three-star lodging whose major benefit is its location – right at the top of Rua Garrett, between the Chiado, one of Lisbon’s most elegant neighbourhoods, and the Bairro Alto, Lisbon’s picturesque bohemian quarter.
Conveniently, the Borges is also next door to the Café A Brasileira, one of the oldest and most famous cafés in Lisbon and a favorite haunt of the poet Fernando Pessoa.
Dinner our first evening was in the Cervejaria Trindade, a short walk from the Borges, next to the Carmo Convent. It is a beautiful historic monument, fully tiled throughout and famous for its seafood (especially shrimp). Don’t be fooled by the name. Yes, the beer is exceptional (after all, Trindade is the oldest brewery in Portugal) but so are the white wines.
This marvellous restaurant is a cherished culinary institution and a noted cultural landmark and (a benefit for us) not very well known to tourists.
On our return from Trindade, we found the pedestrian-only plaza in front of the Borges occupied by a group of young break dancers, each gymnastically and artistically trying to outdo the others, surrounded by an enthusiastic crowd of onlookers. What a lively scene!
The next morning, after a luxurious breakfast at A Brasileira, we set off on foot down the hill towards the Tagus River. Our goal was the Mercado da Ribeira, a large municipal market open seven mornings a week.
Frankly, we were disappointed. The Saturday market in Loulé is better. But nearby we found a lovely little park with a grand statue of General Marquês de Sá da Bandeira. No, we hadn’t heard of him either, but his statue is typical of the very many monumental monuments in Lisbon.
A little walk east along the river brought us to the huge Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s finest square, which contains at its centre an equestrian statue of King José I. The north entrance of the square is through the 19th century Baroque Rua Augusta triumphal arch.
It was here that we hopped on one of Lisbon’s classic yellow trams, which retain original 1930s features like brass dials and polished wood interiors. For €3, you can ride one of the complete circuits. Ours took us through the Alfama District, past the Castelo de São Jorge. We eventually got off at the Sé, Lisbon’s late 12th century cathedral. It was once a fortress, as can be observed from the two towers flanking the façade and its battlements.
Dinner on our second evening was a birthday celebration in another very Portuguese restaurant within an easy walk of the Borges – Mar ao Largo (not to be confused with Mar-a-Lago in Trumpland). The food and wine were excellent, the ambiance very cosy and romantic, and the price very reasonable (under €100 for two).
The birthday celebration continued after dinner with a piano concert featuring Alexandre Kantorow at the Gulbenkian. He played the Brahms sonata nº 1 and several Liszt transcriptions of Schubert songs.
Another lovely breakfast at A Brasileira the next morning preceded our return bus ride back to Loulé. What a wonderfully interesting and varied 36 hours in Lisbon. We should do it more often!
