LISBON recently played host to what is described as one of the social highlights of the year – Moda Lisboa 2004. The ‘ready-to-wear’ showcase has been held in the capital since 1983. This year, fashion journalists, photographers and international TV reporters came to witness summer 2005 collections from some of Portugal’s most famous designers, including Fátima Lopes, Miguel Vieira and Osvaldo Martins, as well as several promising newcomers.
Top Portuguese designer, Miguel Vieira, opened the first of the four-day fashion frenzy. His summer collection was inspired by the flamboyant rock superstar, Freddie Mercury. As songs by the legendary band Queen blared in the background, male models wearing thick silver chains over black frilly silk shirts, worn unbuttoned in the style of the singer, paraded across the catwalk. The show also featured tight-fitting black bikini underwear, with the word ‘Queen’ written on the back in silver glitter, and white T-shirts with an image of the late Freddie Mercury made up of sequins.
Bulgarian designer, Lidija Kolovrat, decided on a softer approach for her summer collection. She based her catwalk show on the theme ‘Fish in Water’. Her models wore black, white and pale designs with cardboard fish pasted over their mouths.
Osvaldo Martins closed the first night of the event with an explosion of colour. He chose blue, green, yellow and red as his summer colours for both men and women. Other highlights of the week included a collection from newcomer Ricardo Dourado, who showcased his feminine masterpieces, which featured women dressed in masculine tailoring, but used soft tones, such as pink, ecru, beige and white, as opposed to the strong colours that dominated Moda Lisboa.
In contrast, Pedro Mourão went for bolder colours such as orange, yellow and a hint of white with his male blazers. Meanwhile, for Dino Alves, accessories are the most important factor for next year’s fashion – hats and Nike shoes completed his summer look.
What’s in this winter?
Moda Lisboa featured summer 2005 fashion, but, with winter still ahead, what are designers suggesting we should wear for the next few months?
Colour: This year, colour is back with a vengeance and autumn and winter will see the shops full of bright dramatic colours in a multitude of materials and textures. Green is set to be a very big colour this season, as well as metallic colours that shimmer and shine.
Fabric: Fake or real, fur is back. Tweed fabric and textured fabrics made from woven ribbons are definitely a must. Parkas are also set to be a top trend.
Prints: Pattern will be everywhere this year. From geometric to blended checks – any pattern is good. Graphic pop art prints amid floral prints will sit happily with the neutrals as more and more individuals accept pattern and colour back into their life.
To get noticed: International designers advise a tweed jacket worn with plain, smooth fronted trousers to highlight the fabrics.