I have written here before about the excellent varietal wines made by this producer located near Colares, in the Sintra hills of the Lisbon region.
The story of this producer is worth retelling though, as this is probably the only winery in the world founded by a nonagenarian, the late Baron Bodo von Bruemmer, who started producing wine there at the age of 96 in 2007, and passed away in 2016 at the grand old age of 105.
Today, the estate, which was originally acquired by Baron von Bruemmer in the early 70s, is run by his grandson Nicholas von Bruemmer.
They have a very decent Pinot Noir, an excellent Riesling and one of Portugal’s best Sauvignon Blancs in their portfolio, but I had not yet tried this one made from the Malvasia grape.
This is a wonderfully fragrant wine with notes of liquorice and citrus fruits on the nose, great freshness in the mouth with vibrant acidity and lovely clean finish. €12.95 at Apolónia.
By Patrick Stuart
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